I'll Have a Hangtown Fry
 
SITTING OVER DRINKS WITH FRIENDS THE  OTHER DAY the conversation led to Pisco Punch, a favorite of prospectors during the California Gold Rush. Why Pisco, a remarkable Chilean brandy that's just making its way back to North American shores? Back in the 1840s, the best way to make the crossing from New York to San Francisco was by boat: no Indian attacks, starvation, or dehydration in the desert to contend with. As ships made their way down to the tip of South America (there wasn't a Panama Canal back then) they'd stop off for supplies in Chile and Peru, loading up on clay jars filled with Pisco.
Naturally, Pisco made its way into the Sierras where the miners toiled to strike it rich. And so did the recipe for Pisco Punch: a blend of simple syrup flavored with fresh pineapple, lemon juice, and Pisco. Now, as we all know man and woman cannot live by Pisco Punch alone. They must have food. What did a lucky 49er order fresh from panning a load? A Hangtown Fry.
Oysters and eggs were worth their weight in gold in those days. And legend has it that a fortunate miner walked into the El Dorado Hotel in Placerville and order the most expensive meal they could create. Voila! The Hangtown Fry was born. Another tale says that this original California cuisine was the last request of a condemned man who wanted an omelette, bacon, and oysters.
I'm not sure who to believe. But what I do know is that the best version I ever had while I lived in the City was at the 150-plus-year-old Tadich Grill, which still sports its original mahogany bar.
Here's the establishment's recipe for one serving:
2 slices smoky bacon
1/2 c seasoned breadcrumbs
6 oysters, shucked (try Kumimotos or Fanny Bays)
1 tb unsalted butter
3 eggs, lightly beaten
3 or 4 dashes Tabasco sauce
kosher salt
fresh ground black pepper
Cook the bacon in a sauté pan over medium heat for 6 to 8 minutes. Drain the bacon on a paper towels. Place the breadcrumbs in a small bowl. Dredge the oysters in the crumbs and lightly shake off the excess. Pour the excess fat out of the pan and add the butter. Melt over medium heat. Add the oysters and sauté for a minute and a half on each side or until the oysters plump up. Crumble the bacon over the oysters. Add the beaten eggs to the pan. Add the Tabasco sauce, salt, and pepper to taste. Cook for 3 minutes, until the eggs are almost set, lifting the edges around the pan to allow the uncooked eggs to run into the pan. Carefully flip the whole omelette over with a spatula and cook for an additional 2 minutes or until the eggs are set.
Slide the omelette onto a plate and serve with fresh sourdough bread and Pisco Punch.
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The Shaken Not Stirred Blog
Tuesday, May 24, 2005