Zig Zag In, Stagger Out
Hey folks, meet Murray. Murray is a bartender in Seattle. Murray has the world’s biggest well (see above). And he knows how to use it.
We thought we’d wandered through all of Pike Place Market the day before, but Robert Hess (www.drinkboy.com) led us down a staircase, then another, and another, and another, to a hidden pocket of cafes across the elevated roadway from the water. Here, with a few tables out front and an interior that could have been lifted from a Turin side street was ZigZag. Robert had been swearing for the better part of a year that ZigZag was a world-class cocktail destination, on par with anything New York or London could shake up. He rated it among the world’s top ten after a couple of MaiTais at Chopsticks, outside Seattle. If I recall correctly, Ryan Magarian who was behind the wheel at this point in the safari, described it as somewhere past the middle of nowhere.
We were a little skeptical, as the Mai Tais were a wonderful throwback--the best of the early 80s, made with aged rum, Trader Vic’s orgeat syrup, no juices other than a generous squeeze of lime, and triple sec. Very tasty. However, the ice was as soft as it had been in my last Harvey Wallbanger, and the garnish was a maraschino cherry. Still, this was a genuine Mai Tai from the era, a liquid museum exhibit--and a pretty tasty one at that.
Back to ZigZag... Murray the bartender spotted us at the door and gave us a welcoming wave. We scanned the cocktail list: Aviation, Between the Sheets, Bourbon Crusta, Deshler, Pegu, Vesper. But did they know how to make them?
I’d been dwelling on the Blood and Sand and, though it wasn’t on the menu, I blurted it out. Murray instantly offered me a twist on it that I’d never considered.
"Scotch or whiskey? Want to try it with Bacardi 8?"
With that he made me an outstanding rum-based Blood and Sand. Marc Nowak, founder of the great Seattle Martini Challenges and International Martini Challenges of the 90s, ordered a Mojito. Murray measured, muddled, poured and garnished. Then, with a julep flourish he dusted the top with confectioners sugar. Marc declared it the best Mojito he’s ever tasted.
Fran, Marc’s wife, had her first encounter with a Deshler (dubonnet, rye, cointreau, bitters), while Anistatia tried one of the house creations, the Chas (bourbon, Cointreau, amaretto, benedictine, orange curacao). Both were perfectly balanced. Robert was right: Murray is truly a master of liquid subtlety.
The Zig Zag Café
1501 Western Avenue (#202)
Seattle WA 98101
(206) 625-1146
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Sunday, November 5, 2006
